Week 1 Around Tahoe

A week in Tahoe with nothing to do but explore. The week began with a little special treatment at the job fair at Sierra Resort and ended with a follow up interview, tomorrow I find out if I'll be getting the job or not. In between consisted of two good hikes, a few real tasty home cooked meals, and a surprising amount of yoga.

Both hikes were out towards Emerald Bay, the first starting at the Bayview trailhead and heading back towards Velma Lakes. There's nothing like having a few great alpine lakes all to yourself on an Indian summer of an afternoon. The next hike started behind Fallen Leaf Lake and ended at the top of Mt. Tallac. Another gorgeous day and a little trailblazing on the way down added a little adventure to the end of the hike.

A drive through the desert at sunset brought me home to a weekend with friends. Now I'm ready to determine what's next for me.

Up the 395

Night number one spent at Whitney Portal, thoughts of climbing it were quickly deterred by hearing of snow and ice along the majority of the trail.

Slept in our cars after we found the North Lake Campground to be closed. Fished here the next morning, Joe caught one here and two more at South Lake in the afternoon. Me? Zero

In Mammoth, the view from the roadside turn out where I cooked myself dinner, the sunset just kept getting better and better.

In Yosemite. An afternoon hike from Olmsted Point to the valley offered close up views of Half Dome at dusk. Found out the next morning I was parked illegally along Tioga Road so hiked back to my car via the Yosemite Falls trail.

Around the Tuolomne Meadow area in Yosemite.

And now in South Lake Tahoe for the next week. Feeling out the town and the job situation and deciding if this will be home for the winter, hard to know what to do.

The Kenai by Car, and Boat

My last few days in Alaska were spent driving around part of the Kenai Peninsula in a stubborn '89 Civic that answered to Cez. Here are a few pictures that do well to portray the trip from the perspective of the car, and the boat.

With bad rain on the way out to Seward, expectations of a relaxing camping trip were diminished, but the next day we woke up to bright blue sky, supposedly the first clear day they'd had in three weeks or so. Given the weather, we couldn't not take a boat ride around Ressurection Bay. The glacial lakes and the turning trees were really great all weekend, especially though driving through Cooper's Landing as the sun was dropping behind the mountains. Attempting to shoot pictures through gaps in the trees while driving along the highway and turning in circles to try again became common.

ALASKA

How to sum up a summer in Alaska in just a few words and even fewer pictures? Can't be done. But it is nice looking back on the time spent up there. It goes so fast during. Looking back there's nothing but positive memories in everything.

Bears, bears, bears.

The Mountain.

The Lights.

The Lake, the Boat, and Friends.

A Glacier, and Mt. Deborah

I just deleted about 1800 pictures from my camera after uploading the last of them to my computer. The first picture taken on the card was from my first day in Kathmandu in January. That memory card spanned quite some adventure. Now on to indulging in the wilderness of the Sierras.

Road Trippin'

Seeing places and people with only a few weeks here in So Cal meant I had to be efficient. Therefore, a little nine day road trip was in store. Arrowhead to the high desert to Vegas to Joshua Tree to San Diego then Laguna and Huntington then up to Redondo Beach and back home with a few hours to nap before the royal wedding. Days spent visiting friends, some more than once. Days spent camping out alone in the desert, driving through more isolated areas for the first time, enjoying the rare greenery that lingers here for only a few weeks a year. The weather was perfect every single day, and now I'm ready to head up and enjoy what to me will be the tail end of the Alaskan winter.

Rishikesh and the Beatles Ashram

My last week in India was spent in Rishikesh. Although there were proportionately more Westerners here than anywhere else I was in India, it didn't ruin the atmosphere of the place because everyone is there in pursuit of their own form of spirituality. Rishikesh, by whoever determines such things, is considered the yoga capital of the world. I planned too poorly to stay at an ashram while I was there, but I was still able to experience many of the ceremonies and courses that I would have if I did. There is such a contrast in Western and Eastern knowledge, and a large part of this trip was planned intending to encounter new perspectives that I hadn't come across before, and Rishikesh helped with that. From doing Love Meditations with a group of strangers, to waking up at 4:30 in the morning to attempt to meditate with local saints, to yoga classes four hours a day, to learning that the path to contentment is found in an awareness of death; all these things were brand new to me and therefore severely difficult to feel successful in any.

A great view of the Ganges, the river I basked next to and bathed in throughout the week.

My last full day in Rishikesh I still hadn't made it to the Beatles Ashram, so it was top of my list. I don't know the details exactly, but the Beatles made the trek out here to stay at this ashram some forty years ago, where supposedly they wrote the White Album. The ashram officially closed fifteen years ago, and since has been slowly overtaken by the jungle surrounding it. It was incredible to walk around and think what all the minds have pondered passing through, and especially of the freedom and creativity in which the Beatles enjoyed while sitting in any of the rooms I'd taken notice of.

In Transit!

I thought two hours to get the thirty kilometers from Rishikesh to Haridwar, where I was to catch a train to Delhi, would be plenty of time. Turns out I was wrong by two minutes. After riding in three different rickshaws and sitting in an Indian traffic jam while a road construction crew paved a precious ten foot stretch of road, I ran through the entrance of the railway station to see my train pulling away from the platform a few rails away. The first time a train had been on time, possibly ever. Fortunately there was a bus station nearby and I was able to hop on one that would arrive at nearly the same time as I would've by train. The driver, thinking he was being nice, let me ride shot gun. Seven stressful hours later, after proving we had the loudest horn on the road and at one point literally driving into oncoming traffic for a few kilometer stretch to reach a restaurant on the opposite side of the center divider, we arrived just before midnight. At that point I didn't want to wake up the next day and think again about navigating public transport, and there were no hotels in the area around the bus station, so I took a shuttle straight to the airport. The guard at the entrance wouldn't let me in the terminal because my flight wasn't leaving for thirteen hours, so I was sequestered to the visitors lounge until I was able to check in. I slept surprisingly well there though. It was a quick flight to Kathmandu, where upon arrival they wouldn't let me leave the airport because my visa had expired the day before. They didn't know what to do with me, so just had me sit and wait for somebody to come along who did know what to do. That person never came, and it turned out all I had to do was pay five bucks for a transit visa and I was able to go and get my things I'd left at a friends' house. What was supposed to be plenty of time to relax and pack up my things and say goodbye to the family I had stayed with my last week in Nepal turned into barely enough time to hop in a cab, grab my things, say a quick bye, and head back to the airport where I rearranged my packing job on the cement outside the entrance. An overnight flight brought me here to Hong Kong, where I arrived early enough this morning to take a train into the city and walk around for a few hours, enjoying a ferry ride across the harbour and finding an authentic noodle and veggie dish. Now I sit leisurely and wait for my plane to begin boarding, then twelve and a half hours later I'll be home in L.A., surely missing the chaos that comes with life abroad.

The Taj Mahal and the Cricket World Cup

I decided to take a cycle rickshaw to the train station in Varanasi just as a thunderstorm passed through town. The winds picked up and dust began blowing everywhere. I switched to an auto rickshaw as the rain started coming down harder, but as long as we were going the right direction I was shielded from the water. That said, I arrived at the rail station pretty soaked, and then almost missed my train after bad information from two different men, but off to Agra I went.

I didn't find out until I arrived in Agra that the Taj Mahal is closed Fridays, so I went Thursday for the afternoon and sunset instead of Friday morning for the sunrise. It was crowded the entire time I was there, but I guess it deserves to be. It was strange looking at a building for so long and giving it so much attention, and I found that I was more moved by what the idea of the Taj meant to me and not by just its physical beauty, which was still incredible. My entire life it has been a symbol of an extremely distant place and different culture than anything I'd experience at home, and that somehow on this day my path had taken me here to be able to appreciate it in person. I think the picture below may be a bit crooked.




I arrived in Delhi yesterday, and the Cricket World Cup Final was last night, India vs. Sri Lanka. The match took about eight hours to finish, so the dramatics were a bit drawn out, but the streets were energetic and shopowner's had their tv's on their counters making sure not to miss a pitch. India did win, and I watched the final few minutes in the back of a large crowd gathered behind a projector. As the cheers began, I retreated to the porch of my hotel. Then the hotel owner came and grabbed me by the arm, told me to come inside, and locked the door behind me. At least I felt looked after. Fireworks and explosions and very happy people dancing and singing echoed through the narrow streets as their country won what was to them the most important tournament in the world.

Varanasi

I've spent three days here in Varanasi. It's a holy city with the Ganges running through, which means no alcohol, though you can still find a few barred shops selling 'fruit beer', 'strong soda', and 'solid punch'. I've spent the few days mainly walking around the city, visiting the Hindu University one afternoon, relaxing in the shade near the river trying to stay cool, and taking a few flute lessons (!) in a music store nearby. Last night I walked from my hotel along the river, mouth closed and head down to avoid getting hit by bugs, to where they have a Hindu ceremony every night. The lights reflecting off of the river, and the boats full of tourists and locals going to view the ceremony from the water were incredible.









This one's for mom. I woke up before dawn this morning to take a boat ride on the river. People wake up so early and get to work here. The sunrise was great. Today it's off to Agra by train. This afternoon is the Cricket World Cup Semifinal, India vs. Pakistan, which I'll be missing the end of unfortunately. Everyone is crazy about it here, I think somebody on the train will bring a radio aboard. I thought I heard Vin Scully's voice coming out of a radio the other day, must be Dodger season too. Good time of year to be a sports fan. (VCU what the heck?)

My Last Week in Kathmandu

This past week has been very similar to my first week here in Nepal. I've been waiting for my visa for India to come through, so I've had a few extra days more than I would have liked here in Kathmandu, but I've enjoyed them more than I thought I would. I was taken around on motorbike, scary, to many of the temples that I didn't make it to during my first visit. The days I was on my own I walked from one side of the city to the other and back again, immersed in the chaos that floods the senses to the point of exhaustion. I'm staying with a family a little bit outside of the city, and my favorite hobby with them has been to get demolished in chess by the 8, 9, and 10 year old boys. There's 17 kids total, most of them taken in or adopted. Last the father and I stayed up late watching India barely beat Australia in the Cricket World Cup quarterfinals. It's been nice staying with them.










Today was pleasant. During the time I had to wait for my visa, I walked around Durbar Square in Kathmandu City, through many narrow streets lined with merchants and overcrowded with motorbikes, rickshaws, taxis, and people. I picked up a few souvenirs that I'd been planning on, which really made me feel like I was preparing to come home. I leave on a bus tomorrow for India, where I'll train around for a little less than three weeks, then stop off in Kathmandu to pick up a few things and America jane (I go to America in Nepali).

Chitwan

Wednesday morning started with a two hour canoe ride down the Rapti River in Chitwan National Park. We had three guides and two other tourists besides myself, the edges of the canoe were only a few inches out of the water the entire ride. We saw over twenty crocodiles, and a lot of cool birds, my favorites being the Ruby Shelduck and White-Throated Kingfisher. They were all extremely vibrant.

After the canoe trip was the jungle walk. We started about ten o'clock and walked through the national park, resting at lookout towers and tracking animals until after sun down. An hour into the trip we saw our first rhinoceros. A short while later we were able to watch another one bathe in a small lake, and saw one more in the evening from a lookout post.

During one of our rest breaks there were monkeys playing in the trees above us. This langur monkey was nestling it's baby in one arm as it swung from branches with its other, all while keeping a close eye on us trespassers.

Next up were Sloth Bears. After we startled one in the early afternoon, I received my first lesson in tracking a sloth bear. First, wait a few minutes after it runs away to see if it reappears somewhere. When it doesn't follow its path to try to startle it into moving again. When that doesn't work, start a fire with the dry grass in the area to try to scare it into moving again, then circle back to your original vantage point and wait for a few more minutes. I was fairly certain the bear was long gone, and it turned out it was. The brush fire grew bigger and louder as we sat and watched nothing happen, then left after a few minutes, leaving the fire to burn out on its own. It was strange to say the least. We did get lucky again and saw four or five more late in the evening. One cub even riding on her mom's back as they curiously spied at us.

The sunsets and sunrises were incredible, and the moon at night was full enough to light up the river and surrounding grasslands. As soon as we got back after the two day hike, it was time for the daily elephant baths. I was in desperate need of a shower, and so was the elephant. It rolled around in the water for a while, me always failing to hang on to its back. It sprayed me with the river water, which probably wasn't too clean but felt great in the moment. The rest of the afternoon I sat on the beach, reading and writing, only moving to walk into the river and splash myself with water to stay cool. It was a great few days in the jungle.

Celebrating Holy Days

A few friends from our organization, who we refer to as the Dutchies, came up to visit our village on Monday.


Wednesday night we celebrated Shivaratri in the village. They do bonfire right here. Some music, some dancing, and a whole lot of sugar cane.




Thursday was the Buddhist New Year, so we went down to the Monastery in town and watched the dances being performed. It was so hot, and they danced in these heavy costumes for so long. One of the coolest things I've seen here so far.

From the Journal

A few excerpts from the week...

March 2- Shivaratri (Holy Day)
Warm, blue, breezy, and free. The energy of everyone here and celebratory is strong. Sister is aimless, but it is refreshing after watching her everyday toil through her chores from before we rise until after we go to sleep. To witness Ama sprawled out on the straw mat, half asleep but to tease me in Nepali and occasionally pass me grapes, compared to her usually tireless labor. And Baa, the unresting soul that he is, granted time to relax only to fill it with making making more bamboo baskets. As other men of the village wander lazily and purposelessly, he fills the day productively, while never ceasing to be an attentive host to the others. A day to spend with family, to appreciate and enjoy.

March 3-
Every morning here is like camping. Wake up at 6, lie in your sleeping bag until 7, sometimes 8, pretty much until you can't put off going pee any longer. A bit chilly when you first walk outside, but it is refreshing, and it will warm up quickly with the ascending sun. Splashing your face awake from the cold tap, brushing your teeth without the use of a sink or clean water. Walking around the clay yard barefoot, feeling the skin directly in contact with the natural, something that can goes days without occurring sometimes at home. Taking in the weather of the morning, gazing up at the white mountains, and listening to the abundance of birds. Larger animals just as present, but more hesitant to boast of their presence so freely. Their positions, though desirable, better left unknown. It is a life entwined in nature, a life lived dependent on the earth in the most direct and earnest way. It is not poor, it only cannot afford the complications of the West, of the city. If I were smart, I would claim it as my own, this life, but the conditioning of my past has enforced the belief that simple is not better or more efficient. That depending on the manufactured goods which I'm accustomed to is a superior form of life that only a moron would give up. It would be a step backward, an insult to evolution.

School, Home, Lakeside

This is Rashmila, a four year old in the nursery program at our school. Our roles at the school are ever-changing, from teaching three periods a day on our own to only observing during two, to sometimes spending the whole day playing with the nursery kids or writing a final exam for the class you've only just begun sitting in on. We are spending a lot more time thinking of and creating materials to leave behind when our time is up, and a few times a week we play some kind of game with all of the kids before they're lunch break begins and we head back to our home for the day. As we become more and more flexible with what our responsibility actually is, or isn't, our relationship with the teachers has been much more enjoyable.


Life at our home has been the highlight of the trip so far. Every weekend when we come down to Pokhara and have dinner with the other volunteers, we are constantly telling stories about our baa and ama and how hilarious our time with them is. Emily and I tagged along on one of the evening chores, where Baa and Ama gather leaves to feed the buffalo and goats. Baa climbs forty of fifty feet, probably higher, up into the tree, putting his full weight (all of 40 kilos) on branches no bigger than his wrist. Every time he looked down and saw me with the camera pointed up at him, he would crack a big smile and strike a pose. They are always teasing us about helping with the work around the house, but anytime we actually try to help they usually just laugh and tell us to sit down. There's a lot of laughing happening. Rarely are we sure what they're laughing at or whom, but we're fairly certain it's directed mostly at us.



Last weekend we hiked up to the World Peace Pogoda high up a hill above Pokhara. The day was nice, and we enjoyed a short paddle and the steep hike to reach the temple. We walked up the steps and around the stoupa, and enjoyed the views of the lake and city down below, and the mountains across the valley. It was an interesting feeling being at a peace temple in a country that only a few years ago came out of a ten year civil war. I know my country hasn't been able to enjoy a time of peace in about a decade or so, but here in a developing country it is easier to see how necessary it is in hoping to progress.

My new favorite hobby here when not in the village is to rent a boat and drift around the lake for a couple hours. It's been warm enough to enjoy the sun a little bit while on the water. The pace in the boat is not quick at all, so thankfully the lake isn't so large that it takes more than an hour or so to drift/paddle from one side to the other. There's a few holidays coming up that we're looking forward to celebrate. Planning the last few weeks here makes it feel like it's nearly time to come home. We'll only be at the village for another few weeks, then off to trekking for a week or so and see what other adventure beckons after that. India and the Taj Mahal? Maybe a meditation course at a monastery in Kathmandu? Or another trek? Only longer and more remote. We'll see.