Saturday, January 29, 2011

The Village Gharmi

It's a steep climb to our village, half an hour hike from the nearest paved road. Last Sunday would've been a normal school day for the children if it hadn't been for our celebrated arrival. The students were lined up waiting for us, the first four placing bright orange flowered necklaces around our heads to welcome us, the second four waiting patiently to gift us each a Nepali orange. That's all there is, eight students at the school, with five more in the nursery program. The teacher who could speak a bit of English only kept repeating, "It makes me very happy you are here."

 
We have a baa, an ama, and a bahini (dad, mom, younger sister), two water buffalo who we share a wall with, and a momma goat and her two babies, each two weeks old. Communication amongst our family requires considerable effort and patience, but often times in the kitchen at dinner or sitting around the fire after, the broken conversation turns to deep laughter from the small words each of us understand of the others' language and the funny ways we say them. One night, while the power was out and the hillside dark, we heard yelling in the distance, which our baa (the principal of the school and somewhat of the town elder) returned with yelling of his own, and soon somewhat of a conversation was taking place amongst the darkness, each family relaying information at the top of their lungs from one house to the next. A few nervous minutes later we translated that there were three thieves on a motorcycle coming up the hill. A few minutes after that, as we're about to go inside, lock the door, and hide in our room, our family casually said it was time for dinner, nothing more mentioned of the thieves as we sat eating with the door wide open. We figured if they aren't worried then we didn't need to be.


It being the dry season, the rice fields spanning the hillside between our house and the school are partly covered by a bright yellow mustard looking plant, and the rest by green leaf veggies. We also have mountains, great views of three Himalayan peaks off in the distance. The first thing I do every morning is walk to the corner of the porch where all three peaks are visible and see how they are looking that day.




The atmosphere created by the teachers at the school has been frustrating so far, and we have realized that progress with the students and staff will take a bit more creativity and perseverance than we first expected. Our mornings are spent teaching the three separate classes, I Math and Emily English, and our afternoons usually on the hillside somewhere away from the village, reading peacefully. We return tomorrow for our second of eight weeks, and a few conversations of strategy planning with our coordinator and a local teacher have left us feeling encouraged to continue.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Pokhara

An uncomfortable bus ride, spanning only the distance from Denali to Fairbanks, but taking a tiring eight hours, brought us to the lakeside town o Pokhara. For the next few months this town will be our vacation spot, our weekend escape to hot showers and a soft bed, and the company of fellow volunteers flocking to town for the same things. The weather has been foggy and cold the past week, blocking the heard about views from town of the Annapurna Himalayas, multiple 8,000 meter peaks being visible from the city center. An afternoon yoga class took me up a seldom used trail to a lookout of the city and the neighboring lake, where the guru and I sat in a small room with a large window until it grew too dark inside to continue, then talked outside, his Nepali accent and my simple as can be so he could understand English, until again it grew close to dark and I worried about walking back down the trail without light. Yesterday we spent all afternoon walking the streets, shopping and haggling prices, trying on all sorts of strange colored but traditional Nepali pants and shirts. Today it is off to our village, which I am still unsure the exact name or what our schedule will be like once there, but am so excited to have a room and call it home for the next two months.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Kathmandu

A short walk through a narrow passageway leads from one of the thousand noisy streets of Kathmandu to one of the city's hundreds of temples. Here in the temple square, the surrounding old, low-lying buildings allow the sun to stay long during the cold days of winter. A local man claiming to only want to practice his English walked with me there yesterday. When I told him where I was headed he simply said, "There is no temple there," and attempted to direct me towards one of the better known ones in the area. Unlike those better known temples, there are no shops or restaurants in the buildings surrounding this square, only residences. To even those who live nearby, this temple is near to commonplace. Its as if its been forgotten about. The distance separated from the street is just enough to barricade the square from the pollution of taxis and their horns, allowing it the solitude it deserves. This forgotten temple is the most, if not only, peaceful place to sit in Kathmandu.



I shared my camera with two kids who kept asking me questions I couldn't understand, this is one child's photo of the other.


The intersection outside of my hotel my first five nights in Kathmandu, gotta love the tree.